• June 24, 2019

When the design of this chassis is complete, full plans will be published. However, I started this design with a chassis bought on Fleabay. Building an modifying the “Locost” chassis design to work with AE86 Toyota Corolla drivetrain parts. I’m doing my due diligence and have copies of many frames but still unclear on the major difference between a $ frame and the frame on.

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I built the lower side of the frame on the drawing of page 47, scanned, scaled to 1 to 10, and then printed. Be sure to refer to the book for these structurally critical pieces. The last part of skinning that I added was the rear bulkhead, despite the rear end still being unfinished.

Probably missed this someplace in the forum’s but tried. An increase of 4″ through the entire width of the chassis with subsequent changes to the diagonal members as needed. Therefore the buffing did not go easy, and especially on the delicate 0. The plans are not complete, but they should provide you with a very good and very accurate starting point.

Thats probably the biggest part of your due dilligence Instead I decided to build the chassis in 1 to 10 scale. Not an error but more an improvement: You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum.

Body panels are usually fiberglass nose and wings and aluminium side panels. A locost frame is easier to built then a Caterham frame, so it’s just normal that the frame will be cheaper, and actually a complete locost frame is more like and there not even skinned.


Details of the transmission tunnel, suspension brackets, and triangulating strength members are not provided in any of these drawing packages. First step was to decide on the mechanical components that I was going to use as they determine a lot of the design criteria. Additionally, fiberglass body components, suspension pieces and other Locost-specific components can be sourced from various suppliers.

I obtained a great set of detailed plans from Formula Motor Sport in Queensland and incorporated many of their ideas into my chassis. Most builders will tell you a full frame takes some time, Dave W. I found out later that I had made a substantial error during the painting phase. And they behaved very different, the latter drying very, very fast at summer temperatures.

It explains most but not all of the process, but nevertheless it’s very inspiring.

Scratchbuilt 1/10 scale Locost chassis

Also the rear frame around the differential is a lot more complex. You can download a Caterham frame example from the Google Sketchup site. I used various improvised tools to jig the parts, like Lego blocks, steel blocks and plastic card.

Does anyone have pictures of the Caterham’s for a side by side comparison? And I found out that the instructions for the longitudinal position of the front suspension brackets is completely missing in the book, which must play havoc with the castor angles of the real thing – loccost If they are designed badly, they will have a low torsional stiffness, which will make for less than desirable road holding. Learning much more than the books provided.

I used a JLC saw to cut some connections, and realign some tubes to square the chassis. I bought four meters of 2.

Locost – Wikipedia

As you can see, I had started base-coating the model too, using Humbrolin search of building defects. Caterham vs Locost Frame. The remainder is to be built from 1. Chassis Plans The chassis plans on this site are based on the original Locost design presented in Ron Champion’s book. There are three drawing packages to choose from.


There are some vendors manufacturing nosecones that are taller than the book design to provide even more height for the engine. Front suspension is usually double wishbone with coil spring struts. Also ask your self what kind of a build do you want, from designing every single bracket to just bolting the pieces together. I know that some later Caterhams have an aluminum honeycomb floor.

I liked the chassis in bare white plastic, but I thought it would look even better in Humbrol’s Polished Steel. Next the ‘sheet metal’ of the transmission tunnel, the rear uprights, the footwell front, the sides of the car, the top of the footwell, and the nose bottom panel were added, in that order.

Complicated doesn’t even begin to describe the rear end: The rear is traditionally live axlebut has many variants including independent rear suspension or De Dion tube. The scale was chosen for convenience: Retrieved from ” https: The Locost is not to be confused with the similarly named Locust which is also a Lotus Seven inspired car.

However, the design has become so popular that several fabricators have begun producing the chassis in kit car form. This has led to a series of improvements to the Champion design, including increased reinforcement at the nose of the chassis and around the occupants. Views Read Edit View history. In Australiakit cars must pass structural testing for certification for road use.

Tue Jan 06, 4: I ignored the problems on the rear side, and continued with the transmission tunnel, built from 2.